That enclosure might work for smaller ASA prints, but I needed a lot more insulation than a garbage bag to pull off larger prints.

Maybe I got lucky with TPU, but I didn’t run into any significant issues with humidity when I printed treads for wagon wheels over the course of two or three days.

TPU will be nearly impossible for your kiddo to destroy. ASA/ABS are rugged, but if your print has thin surfaces it’s less strong in my experience than PETG.

I didn’t find TPU hard to print personally, just go slow and turn retraction way down or completely off. It will string pretty good, but most slicers have a setting to avoid crossing perimeters that will keep it in check. The only thing I would be wary of is ending up with a floppy print, so make sure the part has some structure.

For smaller prints, agree. For larger prints a cardboard box will do just fine, but it needs a little something in my experience. Not too much mind you.

I made a bad choice and it’s time to cut my losses

You’ve received some good replies on this question, but I think there’s also another question at play: an offshoot of identity politics. Many people wrap their personal identity around things. If you question the thing, or put restrictions on it, people take it as an attack on their persona since the thing and their person are so interwoven. You can see this with things like guns, vehicles (motorcycles, car vs truck, auto vs manual, brand x vs brand y), video game consoles, physical media, etc.

Will do, thanks! I totally get having the tweaks in your head or written into the family recipe book with a pen. Our better homes cookbook has tons of notes/tweaks written into it now.

I am simply advocating for shoes that fit your feet. 99% of shoes tend to pretend like your longest toe is your middle toe. I’ve always found this weird.

This seems pretty close to what you described: https://www.chefkoch.de/rezepte/166041072019596/Suesse-Quarkkloesse.html

It sounds good / I’m thinking about giving them a go. If you find a better recipe let me know.

It could easily be a family recipe. It looks like riffs on this theme are pretty common. Maybe it was a Hungarian recipe? Sounds like a great mystery!

That’s fair.

It’s one of the biggest repositories of human-to-human communication on the web.

I am showing my age and have spent decades on various web forums. These sites have thousands, or even tens of thousands, of users and huge quantities of threads some of which can be very deep. Yes, each individual site isn’t that big but there are tons of these things scattered around the web and I’m sure they’ve been crawled. One of the many, many, many manymanymany Ford Mustang forums has > 2 million replies. thirdgen.org, an 80s-early 90s Camaro/Firebird, forum has 763,427 threads with 6.45 million replies going back easily 20 years, which is well before bots.

Discord does have 154M monthly users, so you’re probably right that there is more content there than across all the various boards. It’s also probably a heck of a lot easier to crawl than a bunch of different web forums.

Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they’re doing for z-endstop?

In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they’re not baked into the out of the box solution.

On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:

• let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
• wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
• bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
• I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that’s used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high

My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.

Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?

Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.

I don’t see that being worth much $$ given the massive quantities of that information already available on the web via forums and what not?

Lots of very general light chat and shit posts. It doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of revenue potential there.

We’ve been living at the same house for about a decade. We have a tiny tiny creek in our back yard with some unmowed area around it. Our yard is chemical free and we have tons of pollinators. We saw single digit numbers of lightning bugs for nearly the time we lived here. Never more than two a night and most nights none showed up.

The past few years we’ve seen an uptick. Not loads, but they seem to be making a small comeback. At least in our yard.

The Nazi army used a lot of drugs: https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/29429893-blitzed

I bought a BOM in a box from West3D. I would say the build took 40 hours or so. This includes figuring out what parts to print, mechanical assembly, wiring, and getting klipper up and running.

Edit: maybe 30-40 hours as a guess. I wasn’t rushing and built over the course of two months or so as I had time I could spend. I bet I could cut that down a lot on a second build, but even a fast build is going to be 10-15 hours. Things to be careful of: grabbing the correct pull/belts for the z motors when doing initial assembly, otherwise you’ll have to tear down later, and belt routing for the gantry. I had to redo that one too, but tear down was less intensive to fix that one.

2.4 owner chiming in. It’s a long build and you should probably skip the drag chains due to wire breaks. I am very happy with the printer and the community. Mods are readily available, the stock models are all open source so if you want to make your own mods it’s easy, etc. My printer is also extremely reliable - click print, walk away, come back to a completed print. You’ll need to do some klipper setup to get here, but it’s very achievable with some basic macros like Z Caliberation.

As for print volume, larger prints result in more warpage if you want to print in anything other than PLA. It’s all about chamber temps, but larger prints = larger printer = more surface area for your enclosure to lose heat. Big PETG prints needs an enclosure, but it doesn’t need to be that intense - I was fine with acrylic panels and even popped the top. Big ASA/ABS prints need an insulated enclosure, but I can now print large ASA things successfully. To go with your enclosure you’ll also need a method of actively hearing it. Bedfans, and under bed filtration, is how I dealt with this on my Voron. Since Vorons are designed for an enclosure, all the electronics are not inside the enclosure. I do not know if that’s the case for the Prusa.

Moving from enshitified closed source to a different closed source that’s trying to position itself as user first isn’t necessarily bad.

OP already replied, but the answer was super brief: they invest in their future. I don’t know what that looks like for them, but for us it means funding an emergency fund plus 401ks, IRAs, and college funds for our kids. Even if you’re not able to set aside a ton, the more money you can invest when you’re young the better off you’ll be thanks to the power of compounding.

If you’re lucky enough to advance your career put the extra money into your emergency fund and/or investments - you won’t miss it.

If you’re in debt, try to target one loan to pay off. Once you pay off that single loan keep paying that amount towards your next loan. Repeat until necessary. For example, after we paid off our car we put what used to be our old payment as extra $$ for our mortgage.

Pics or it didn’t happen!

/fellow 90s kid

Cut to the shape of an actual foot and flexible/minimalistic sole. I live in the Midwest, so I’ll compromise some ok sole thickness in the winter. Standing in snow with my kid at the bus stop in minimalistic soles and even thicker socks makes for quick feet.

Shape of your foot? I don’t understand why you would want your toes/foot contorted. I do not understand shoes that have a point in the middle of them. Either you’re smashing your toes together or your making something stick out in front of your foot that will mess up your gate.

Minimalistic sole? This will get you landing more softly on your heel and help you use the balls of your feet more. It’s amazing to me how thick/soft the soles of some shoes are. I suspect they’re necessary to compensate for the way a lot of us walk.

My feet feel fantastic and my motion feels very natural.